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Ilish

El ilish ( Tenualosa ilisha ) ( bengalí : ইলিশ , romanizado :  iliś ), también conocido como ilishi , hilsa , arenque hilsa o sábalo hilsa , es una especie de pez emparentado con el arenque , de la familia Clupeidae . Es un alimento muy popular y buscado en Bengala Occidental , y es el pescado nacional de Bangladesh [3] y el pescado del estado de Bengala Occidental . [4]

En 2021, el 86% del suministro total mundial de ilish se origina en Bangladesh . El pescado aporta alrededor del 12% de la producción total de pescado y alrededor del 1,15% del PIB en Bangladesh . El 6 de agosto de 2017, el Departamento de Patentes, Diseños y Marcas del Ministerio de Industrias de Bangladesh declaró el reconocimiento del ilish como producto de Bangladesh . En 2021, el 86% del suministro total mundial de ilish se origina en Bangladesh , que solicitó la indicación geográfica (IG) en 2004. [5] Aproximadamente 450.000 personas participan directamente en la captura del pescado como una gran parte de su sustento; alrededor de cuatro a cinco millones de personas participan indirectamente en el comercio. [6]

Nombres comunes

Other names include jatka,illi, ilish, ellis, palla fish, hilsha, ilih etc. (Assamese: ইলীহ/ইলীহি: ilih/ilihi, Bengali: ইলিশ, romanized: iliś, Gujarati: મોદાર/પાલ્વા: Modar or Palva, Odia: ଇଲିଶି, romanized: iliśi, Sindhī: پلو مڇي pallo machhi, Tamil: உள்ள மீன்/Ulla Meen, Telugu: పులస pulasa). The name ilish is also used in India's Assamese, Bengali, and Odia communities. In Iraq it is called sboor (صبور). In Malaysia and Indonesia, it is commonly known as terubok. Due to its distinguished features as being oily and tender, some Malays, especially in northern Johore, call it 'terubok umno' (to distinguish it from the toli - which species is rich in tiny bones and not so oily). [citation needed] In Myanmar, it is called (ငါးသလောက်) in Burmese which derives from the Mon language word ကသလံက် with က in Mon and ငါး in Burmese meaning fish.[7]

Abundancia de Ilish en Bangladesh
Abundance of hilsa fish in Bangladesh

Description and habitat

Ilish of Bangladesh

The fish is marine; freshwater; brackish; pelagic-neritic; anadromous; depth range of about 200 m. Within a tropical range; 34°N - 5°N, 42°E - 97°E in marine and freshwater. It can grow up to 60 cm in length with weights of up to 3 kg. It is found in rivers and estuaries in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Myanmar (also known as Burma) and the Persian Gulf area where it can be found in the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in and around Iran and southern Iraq.[8] It has no dorsal spines but 18 – 21 dorsal soft rays and anal soft rays. The belly has 30 to 33 scutes. There is a distinct median notch in the upper jaw. Gill rakers fine and numerous, about 100 to 250 on the lower part of the arch and the fins are hyaline. The fish shows a dark blotch behind gill opening, followed by a series of small spots along the flank in juveniles. Color in life, silver shot with gold and purple. The species filter feeds on plankton and by grubbing muddy bottoms.[9] The fish schools in coastal waters and ascends up the rivers (anadromous) for around 50 – 100 km to spawn during the southwest monsoons (June to September) and also in January to April. April is the most fertile month for the breeding of ilish. The young fish returning to the sea are known in Bangladesh as jatka, which includes any ilish fish up to 9 inches long.

Production

The fish is found in 11 countries: Bangladesh, India, Myanmar, Pakistan, Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Bahrain, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. Bangladesh is the top hilsa-producing country in the world, followed by Myanmar and then India. [citation needed]

Hilsa fishes for sale at fish market in West Bengal, India.

86 percent of the total hilsa catch is taken in Bangladesh. Production has dropped in the other ten hilsa-producing countries; in Bangladesh, however, production reached 517,000 tons in FY 2017–18, up from 279,189 tons in 2006–07, as a result of a strategy implemented by the Bangladeshi government. [citation needed]

Food value

Rice and hilsha fish fry with lentils and fried aubergine

The fish is popular food amongst the people of South Asia and in the Middle East, but especially with Bengalis, Odias and Telugus of Coastal Andhra. [citation needed] Bengali fish curry is a popular dish made with mustard oil or seed. The Bengalis popularly call this dish Shorshe Ilish.[citation needed] It is very popular in Bengal (Bangladesh and India's West Bengal), as well as in Odisha, Tripura, Assam, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh.[citation needed] It is also exported globally.[citation needed]

In North America (where ilish is not always readily available) other shad fish are sometimes used as an ilish substitute, especially in Bengali cuisine. This typically occurs near the East coast of North America, where fresh shad fish, which tastes similar to ilish, can be found.[citation needed]

In Bangladesh, fish are caught in the Meghna-Jamuna delta,[10] which flows into the Bay of Bengal and Meghna (lower Brahmaputra), and Jamuna rivers.

In India, Rupnarayan (which has the Kolaghater hilsa), Hooghly, Mahanadi,[11] Narmada and Godavari rivers and the Chilika Lake are famous for their fish yields.

In the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, hilsa takes on a special significance. Here, the term "pulasa" refers specifically to the larger, mature hilsa that migrate upstream along the Godavari River. This migratory journey is crucial, as it's believed that the Godavari's unique muddy waters contribute to the development of a richer flavour and firmer texture in the fish, compared to hilsa caught elsewhere. Due to this perceived superior quality and its limited seasonal availability (typically monsoon season), pulasa commands a significantly higher price and cultural importance in Andhra Pradesh. It is considered a rich delicacy, often referred to as the "king of fish" in Godavari Areas and features in celebratory meals and as a prized gift. The upstream migration itself is seen as a vital natural process, and the pulasa a reward for the patient fishermen who wait for its arrival.

En Pakistán, la mayoría de los peces hilsa se capturan en el delta del río Indo en Sindh . También se capturan en el mar, pero algunos consideran que la fase marina del pescado no es tan sabrosa. El pescado tiene espinas muy afiladas y duras, lo que hace que sea problemático para algunas personas comerlo. [ cita requerida ]

El ilish es un pescado azul rico en ácidos grasos omega 3. [12] Experimentos recientes han demostrado sus efectos beneficiosos en la disminución del nivel de colesterol en ratas [13] y el nivel de insulina. [ 14]

En Bengala y Odisha , el ilish se puede ahumar, freír, cocinar al vapor o al horno en hojas tiernas de plátano , preparado con pasta de semillas de mostaza , cuajada, berenjena , diferentes condimentos como jira (comino), etc. Se dice que la gente puede cocinar ilish de más de 50 formas. [15] Las huevas de ilish también son populares como guarnición. El ilish se puede cocinar con muy poco aceite, ya que el pescado en sí es muy aceitoso. [16]

Ilish en la cultura

Shorshe ilish , un plato de ilish ahumado con semillas de mostaza , ha sido una parte importante de la cocina bengalí .
El ilish se fríe en aceite de mostaza.

Sobrepesca y posible extinción

Debido a la demanda y popularidad de esta especie, la sobrepesca está descontrolada. Los peces que pesan alrededor de 2 a 3 kilogramos se han vuelto raros en la India, ya que incluso los peces más pequeños se capturan utilizando redes de pesca más finas a medida que la producción en Bangladesh ha aumentado. [25] [26] Como consecuencia de esto, los precios del pescado han aumentado. En el pasado, los ilish no se capturaban entre Vijaya Dashami y Saraswati Puja debido a algunas costumbres informales de los hindúes odia y bengalíes, ya que es el período de reproducción del pez. Pero a medida que aumentaron los ingresos disponibles, los consumidores más ricos abandonaron las antiguas tradiciones. [27]

The advent of finer fishing nets and advanced trawling techniques, and environmental degradation of the rivers, has worsened the situation. Fishermen have been ignoring calls to at least leave the juvenile "jatka" alone to repopulate the species. The fishing of the young jatka is now illegal in Bangladesh. This ban however has resulted in a rise in unemployment, as around 83,000 fishermen are unable to pursue their former livelihood for eight months every year. It has also led to the creation of a black market where jatka are sold for exorbitant prices.[28] Furthermore, the changes brought about by global warming have led to a gradual depletion of the ilish's breeding grounds, reducing populations of the fish even further.[29] Pollution in rivers have worsened the situation, but due to slightly better waters the fishes are found more near Bangladesh delta.[26] Owing to this situation ilish is used as a diplomatic trade item, most recently in the distribution of COVID-19 vaccines.[30]

Bangladesh has regularly imposed restrictions on the export of ilish abroad, citing its scarcity, although the government of Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina periodically lifted the ban to allow the annual export of 3,000-5,000 tonnes of fish to India during the Hindu festival of Durga Puja.[31]

See also

References

  1. ^ Freyhof, J. (2014). "Tenualosa ilisha". IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. 2014: e.T166442A1132697. doi:10.2305/IUCN.UK.2014-1.RLTS.T166442A1132697.en. Retrieved 19 November 2021.
  2. ^ Al-Khalaf, K.; Alam, S.; Almukhtar, M.; Bishop, J.; Abdulqader, E.; Alghawzi, Q.; Al-Husaini, M.; Hartmann, S.; Kaymaram, F. (2015). "Tenualosa ilisha". IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. 2015: e.T166442A75259795.
  3. ^ a b Webb, Lois Sinaiko; Roten, Lindsay Grace (2009), The Multicultural Cookbook for Students, ABC-CLIO, ISBN 978-0-313-37559-0
  4. ^ "State Fishes of India" (PDF). National Fisheries Development Board, Government of India. Retrieved 25 December 2020.
  5. ^ "Recognition for hilsa". The Daily Star. 8 August 2017. Retrieved 16 January 2019.
  6. ^ Siddique, Abu Bakar. "Country's 6th Ilish sanctuary coming soon". Dhaka Tribune. Retrieved 23 May 2015.
  7. ^ Haswell, J. M. (1874). Grammatical Notes and Vocabulary of the Peguan Language. Rangoon: American Mission Press. p. 31.
  8. ^ Al-Dubakel, A. Y. (2011). "Commercial Fishing and Marketing of Hilsa Shad Tenualosa ilisha (Hamilton-Buchanon, 1822) in Basrah -Southern Iraq". Emirates Journal of Food Agriculture. 23 (2). Archived from the original on 22 May 2014. Retrieved 22 May 2014.
  9. ^ "Tenualosa ilisha". FishBase.
  10. ^ "Highway extortion responsible for surge in Ilish prices". Dhaka Tribune. Retrieved 3 May 2016.
  11. ^ "Bioinformatics Centre, National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, India". Biosearch.in. 1 February 2012. Archived from the original on 6 May 2013. Retrieved 22 April 2013.
  12. ^ Mohanty, Bimal; Das, Soma; Bhaumik, Utpal; Sharma, Anil (March 2011). "Tenualosa ilisha: A rich source of omega-3 PUFAs" (PDF). Bulletin (171). Central Inland Fisheries Research Institute. ISSN 0970-616X.
  13. ^ Banerjee I, Saha S, Dutta J (June 1992). "Comparison of the effects of dietary fish oils with different n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid compositions on plasma and liver lipids in rats". Lipids. 27 (6): 425–8. doi:10.1007/BF02536383. PMID 1630277. S2CID 4033041.
  14. ^ Mahmud I, Hossain A, Hossain S, Hannan A, Ali L, Hashimoto M (2004). "Effects of Hilsa ilisa fish oil on the atherogenic lipid profile and glycaemic status of streptozotocin-treated type 1 diabetic rats". Clin. Exp. Pharmacol. Physiol. 31 (1–2): 76–81. doi:10.1111/j.1440-1681.2004.03953.x. PMID 14756688. S2CID 25883400. Archived from the original on 5 January 2013.
  15. ^ "216 easy and tasty hilsa recipes by home cooks". Cookpad. Retrieved 26 October 2023.
  16. ^ Karmakar, Rekha (9 September 2015). "A Fish Lover's Guide To Cooking Hilsa". www.indiafoodnetwork.in. Retrieved 26 October 2023.
  17. ^ "What the fish! Godavari Pulasa selling for Rs 4,000 per kg". The Times of India. Retrieved 18 February 2018.
  18. ^ "Ilish... a love story". dna. 24 May 2014. Retrieved 3 May 2016.
  19. ^ "What the fish! Godavari Pulasa selling for Rs 4,000 per kg". The Times of India. Retrieved 18 February 2018.
  20. ^ "Pulasa season starts early". The Times of India. Retrieved 18 February 2018.
  21. ^ Khan, M. Hussain (2 April 2019). "The palla, the shrine, the catch and the cook". Dawn.
  22. ^ Karmakar, Kalyan (24 April 2018). "10 Reasons to Get Invited to a Sindhi Household for Dinner". NDTV Food.
  23. ^ Sen, Pritha (9 July 2017). "A fishy fable: If it's monsoon, it must rain hilsas". The Indian Express.
  24. ^ Sen, Shomini (7 September 2016). "East Bengal vs Mohun Bagan: The War Between Hilsa and Prawns". News18. Archived from the original on 27 March 2022. Retrieved 27 March 2022.
  25. ^ Dasgupta, Reshmi R. (13 August 2012). "Bengalis are loving Ilish to extinction". The Economic Times.
  26. ^ a b "Hilsa Fish: অসুস্থ গঙ্গা থেকে মুখ ফিরিয়ে মায়ানমার পাড়ি দিচ্ছে ইলিশের ঝাঁক". anandabazar.com (in Bengali). Retrieved 24 September 2021.
  27. ^ Mazumdar, Jaideep (1 September 2008). "The Last Ilish Curry". Outlook.
  28. ^ Moitra, Kalyan (1 July 2002). "Hilsa may soon become endangered: Experts". The Times of India. Archived from the original on 1 July 2013.
  29. ^ "Bangladesh's Hilsa Fish Acts as Early Warning of Climate Change". Archived from the original on 22 May 2014. Retrieved 1 July 2013.
  30. ^ ভ্যাকসিন নেই, তাই ইলিশও নেই! (in Bengali). Deutsche Welle. 22 June 2021. Retrieved 25 September 2021.
  31. ^ "'Fish diplomacy' setback for India and Bangladesh". BBC. 11 September 2024. Retrieved 11 September 2024.

External links

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