A quickdraw with one end attached to a bolt hanger (which is itself attached to a fixed bolt), and the other end clipped into a dynamic rope, on a sport climb route
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See C-grade.[4]
A type of anchor used in abseiling especially in winter and in ice climbing.
ABD
Also assisted braking device.
A term used to describe a progress capture device or a self-locking device such as a Petzl GriGri that immediately locks if the rope travels through it quickly in a specific direction. See auto belay.
A technique by which a climber descends via a fixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixed anchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See tat and cord.
abseil rack
See rack.
add-on
An indoor climbing game where climbers take turns creating a route, adding two moves at a time.[5]
accessory cord
See cord.
active protection
Also active camming device or ACD
Type of protection that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of passive protection. See cams and friends.
adze
Ice axe with adzeA thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe; is used for chopping footholds.
Type of rock climbing where artificial devices are used to make upward progress (and not just for protection); opposite of free climbing. See clean aid climbing.
Part of the alpine climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.[4][6]
alpine knee
An awkward climbing technique where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot.[7]
alpine start
Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5:00a.m. (and even much earlier); common to alpine climbing to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.[2]
An arrangement of one or more pieces of fixed protection set up to support the weight of a belay, a top rope, or an abseil.[1][3] See also deadman anchor.
An armchair landingA technique in deep-water soloing for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a 30-foot (9.1 m) fall can be absorbed in just 5 feet (1.5 m) of water.[8]
Bachar ladderA piece of training equipment used to improve campusing and core body and arm strength; invented by John Bachar.
back-clipping
A hazardous mistake whereby the rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner.[1][10]
back-step
A back-stepStepping on a hold where the outside edge — little toe side — of the shoe touches the rock.[1][11][12]
bail
To retreat from a climb.
ball nut
A type of protection device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.[13]
barn-door
A potential barn door swing to the rightWhen all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. See flagging.[2]
bashie
See copperhead.
bat hang
Using a bat hangWhere a lead climber gains a brief upside-down rest by hanging from their wedged feet. See chest jam and knee bar.
A mechanical device used by belayers to increase braking force when belaying; can be passive like a figure eights or tubers, or a more active assisted braking device like the Petzl GriGri.[1][2]
Glasses that are worn by the belayer to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.[14]
belay gloves
Belay gloveGloves that are worn by the belayer to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.[14]
belay loop
The strongest point on a climbing harness, and the loop to which a belay device is physically attached.[1][2]
belay off
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "off belay" request.[15]
belay on
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "on belay" request.[15]
belay station
Bolted belay stationThe place from which a belayer is belaying, sometimes anchored to the ground, or directly to the rock (particularly in a hanging belay on big wall climbing routes), or other objects.[16]
A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the headwall.
beta
Information on how to complete (or protect) a particular climbing route. See on-sight and flash.[1][2][3]
beta break
In sport climbing, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.
beta flash
See flash.
bicycle
A rock-climbing technique for overhangs where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).[17]
Big Bro
Also tube chock.
A hollow telescopic tubular device manufactured by Trango for use as protection in off-width crack climbing.[18]
Big wall climbingA long sustained sheer exposed rock climb with at least 6–10 pitches (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use of portaledges.[1]
Where the belayer uses their body, and not a mechanical belay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.[19]
boinking
A sport climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to take in the slack quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.[20]
bollard
Snow bollardA large block of rock or ice that is used as an anchor to construct a belay.
bolt
A point of protection permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal bolt hanger is attached, with a hole to attach a carabiner or a quickdraw; used in sport climbing and in competition climbing.[1][2]
bolt chopping
The deliberate removal of bolts from a climb; happens on traditional climbing routes (e.g. the Indian Face); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.[3]
bolt ladder
Sequence of bolts that are so close together, they can be used by aid climbers as a ladder.[2]
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. no hammered pitons or bolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an A-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".[4]
cam
A spring-loaded camming device (SLCD), also known as "friends", used as protection in traditional climbing.[1]
An aluminum loop with a spring-loaded gate used to attach various load-bearing climbing devices together.[1]
carrot bolt
Carrot bolt with nut
Also bash-in.
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed machine bolt that functions like a bolt but with no fixed bolt hanger; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a rivet hanger or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.[24]
Type of harness that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.
chest jam
Jamming the torso into a wide crack, especially to allow the climber to rest.
chicken bolt
Term in big wall climbing and aid climbing to refer to a bolt placed to reduce the risk of a difficult section.[25]
chicken head
Tied chicken headKnob or horn of rock narrowed at the base .[2]
chicken wing
A crack climbing technique where a hand is placed on one side of the crack and the shoulder on the other.[26]
chimneying
ChimneyingRock-climbing technique for climbing a rock cleft with mostly parallel vertical sides, large enough to fit the climber's body. See stemming.[1][2]
A broad movement that extended from the earlier free climbing movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use of bolts or pitons in sport climbing.
cleaning tool
Cleaning tool
Also nut key or nut tool.
A device for removing jammed protection equipment, especially nuts, from a route.
climbing area
A region with numerous climbing routes. See crag
climbing command
A short phrase used for communication and instructions between a lead climber and a belayer. See take.[15]
A type of climbing held on climbing walls for mostly professional or Olympic climbers, split into the disciplines of lead climbing (on a bolted sport climbing route), bouldering and speed climbing. A fourth discipline of "combined" add the three together. See IFSC.[30]
A type of ice climbing held on climbing walls for mostly professional ice climbers, split into the disciplines of ice lead climbing (on a bolted sport climbing dry-wall route), and ice speed climbing on an iced route. See also UIAA.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a hammer; commonly used in aid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
cord
Also cordage, accessory cord
A short piece of thin climbing rope used for various purposes in climbing, including for creating abseil stations. See tat.[29]
Daisy chainA special-purpose type of sling with multiple sewn or tied loops, used in aid and big wall climbing.
dead hang
Dead hangingWhen a climber hangs limp, such that their weight is held by arm ligament tension rather than by muscles.
deadman anchor
Also snow anchor and T-slot
An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as an anchor for an attached fixed rope.[33]
deadpoint
A controlled dynamic motion in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.[34] See dynos.
deck
The ground below a climbing route (i.e they fell to the ground and "hit the deck"). See ground fall.[2]
A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness; otherwise known as acetazolamide.[35]
dihedral
DihedralAn open book-shaped corner formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of an arête.[1][2]
direttissima
Italian for "shortest link", is the most direct route to the summit of a mountain up the fall line (e.g. the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima on the Cima Grande, Dolomites); origin of the term is often attributed to Emilio Comici who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone".[36]
direct start
A new variation of an existing rock climbing route that avoids detours taken before the main line is reached due to their greater difficulty (e.g. Suprême Jumbo Love as a direct start to Jumbo Love).
dirtbag
A climber who lives modestly and often itinerantly, to maximize the amount of time climbing. Practitioners included Jan and Herb Conn and Fred Beckey (from the film: Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey).[37]
double ropes
Also half ropes.
Using double ropesIn lead climbing where two thinner ropes are used instead of a single rope to manage rope drag. Compare twin ropes.[29]
downclimb
To descend by climbing downward (rather than by abseiling or lowering off), after completing a climb, or bailing.
drag
Also rope drag.
Friction from the rope running over the rock and through the lower protection. See slack and double ropes.[38][39][40]
drilled baby angle
Drilled baby angle
Also drilled pitons.
A type of anchor used in soft rock instead of bolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton) hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.[41][42]
drive-by
A deadpoint where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.
drop knee
Also egyptian.
Also knee drop.
Also lolotte.
An advanced rock-climbing technique where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries.[1][11]
An elastic climbing rope that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Compare static rope.[29]
dyno
In rock climbing, a dynamic jump or leap to grab an out-of-reach hold; failure to grab the hold will usually result in a fall. See also paddling and campusing.[1][2][43]
Part of the British adjectival grading system that is used to rank the level of risk (a separate grade is given for technical difficulty) of traditional climbing routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).[4]
edging
Using the edge of a climbing shoe on a narrow foothold; in the absence of footholds, smearing is used.
Egyptian
EgyptianSee Drop knee.[1][11]
Egyptian bridging
The same position as bridging or chimneying, but with one leg in front and one behind the body.
A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) a.s.l, of which there are only 14 in the world.
eliminate
1. A bouldering move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".[2]
2. A British climbing term for a route that does not take the most obvious or direct line, and instead 'eliminates' the use of other features to create its line (e.g. not allowing the climber to use a nearby crack in making their ascent).[2]
Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g. fixed rope, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of alpine style.
Ratio of the height (h) a climber falls to the rope length (l) available to absorb the energy of a fall.[1][2]
false peak
Also false summit
A peak that appears to be the pinnacle of the mountain but upon reaching, it turns out the summit is higher (and further ahead).
figure-four
A figure-four move
Also figure of four and figure-four move and yaniro
An advanced climbing technique in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common in mixed climbing.[2]
figure-nine
Also figure of nine and figure-nine move
A variation of the figure-four move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.[2]
Jumaring up a fixed rope using an ascenderA rope that hangs from a fixed attachment point; commonly used for abseiling (going down) or for jumaring (going up).
flagging
A rock-climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight, often to prevent a barn-door.[2] There are three types of flagging:[12][11]
normal flag
Flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging right foot to the right side of the body).[12][11]
reverse inside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
reverse outside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
flake
A thin slab of rock detached from the main face offering a hold, although it may become detached.[2]
flash
To ascend a route on the first attempt, but having obtained beta; with no beta, it is an on-sight.[1][2][45][3]
font
Also Fontainebleau grade.
The French grade system for bouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American V-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with French grades.[6]
foot jam
Also heel-to-toe jam.
A technique of jamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
flapper
The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces.
The use of very basic aid climbing techniques (i.e. A0-graded aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used in big wall climbing.[46]
The French grade system for sport climbing, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American YDS system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with font grades.[6]
French start
Moving off for the second hold without being established on the start holds, thus using the floor as a foothold. In most competition climbing, including IFSC events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.[47]
frenchies
An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.
friable
Delicate and easily broken rock, or ice, often dangerously so.
Mountaineering clothing equipment that is worn over the boots and lower leg to give added protection and waterproofing.
Gaston
A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, like a reverse side pull. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named for Gaston Rébuffat.[1][2][11]
gate flutter
The unwelcome action of the gate on a carabiner opening during a fall.
Classifications intended as an objective measure of the technical difficulty of a climbing route (including rock, ice, bouldering, mixed, and aid). The most widely used lead climbing} grading systems are the French sport climbing grades, and the American Yosemite Decimal System; for bouldering, it is the font grade and the V-grade systems.[2][6]
The first free ascent (FFA) by a lead climber of a new climbing route that sets a new grade level (e.g. the first-ever 9b (5.15b) grade milestone was Chris Sharma's FFA of Jumbo Love in 2008).
greenpoint
Also greenpointing.
Ascending a sport climbing route but only using traditional climbing protection (e.g. Principle Hope). See redpoint.[48]
Belaying with a grigriA belay device invented and manufactured by Petzl; also used in rope solo climbing.[2]
gronked
Accidentally going off-route leading into a harder route; from the notorious climb Gronk in Avon Gorge.
ground fall
Also decking.
Where a lead climber falls and hits the ground, either because their protection failed (e.g. zipper fall), the runout was too great, or the belayer failed to arrest or hold the rope.[2]
H
half ropes
See double ropes.[29]
hand jam
A type of jam using the hand in a crack.[1]
hand traverse
Traversing without any definitive footholds, i.e. no edging, smearing or heelhooking.
Using a hanging belay (bottom climber)Where the belay station of the belayer is suspended from the ground and tied to the wall via a fixed anchor point; used in big wall climbing and multi-pitch climbing.
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.[2]
A round-ended carabiner for use with a Munter hitch (from German for the hitch; Halbmastwurfsicherung).
hook
Also fifi hook and cam hook.
A mechanical piece of climbing equipment used in aid climbing. See also skyhook.
hueco
A round hold consisting of a pocket in the rock with a positive lip, varying in size from a single finger (a "mono") to body-sized. The term comes from Hueco Tanks that is notable for huecos, the Spanish term for a "hole".
An alternative to the Prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.
knee bar
Using a knee barWedging a knee against a hold in such a way as to allow the other limbs to be released and rested.[1][55]
knee drop
See Egyptian.
knee pad
An artificial pad that is worn on the lower thigh to protect a climber when performing a knee bar; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.[56][57]
L
ladder
Aluminum ladder
Also aluminum ladder.
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in expedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of aid climbing support (this can also be done with flexible bachar ladders). See also aider.
A Petzl lanyard and energy absorberA Y-shaped piece of protection equipment used in via ferrata climbing that attaches the harness to the fixed steel cables. Lanyards often attach to energy absorbers given the higher fall factor of via ferrata climbing.
laybacking
Laybacking
Also liebacking.
Climbing an edge by side-pulling with both hands and using opposing friction for the feet.[1][2][11]
The individual ascending the route in lead climbing; the other person is the belayer.[1][2]
leader fall
A lead climber fall while lead climbing; will be at least twice the distance to the last piece of protection.
Leavittation
A technique used to climb off-width cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placing protection.[58]
A liquid form of climbing chalk but with a longer hold time.
live rope
In lead climbing, the segment of the rope between the lead climber and the belayer.[2]
lock-off
Resting lock offA climber holding a fixed position with one bent arm, usually while clipping or reaching for another hold with their other arm, or resting. Contrast with dead hang.[1]
lolotte
See Egyptian.
lower-off
When a lead climber is lowered down the route by the belayer holding their weight on the belay device.
low zone
In competition bouldering, a marked hold somewhere between the start and zone. It is either worth some number of points (less than the zone) or used as a tiebreaker.
Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.[4] See also D-grade.
mantel move
Mantel moveMoving onto a shelf of rock by pressing down on it with the palms until the climber can stand on the "mantel" (i.e. the same action as leaving from the side of a pool).[1][2][12][11]
A type of climbing that involves using ice climbing tools on iced-up or snow-covered rock surfaces; mixed climbing techniques are used in dry-tooling and in alpine climbing.[51]
mono
Mono hold
A climbing hold, typically a pocket or a hueco, which only has enough room for one finger.[1][2]
A mountain or rock formation that protrudes through an ice field.
nut
NutsA metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.[2]
nut key
Also nut tool.[2]
See cleaning tool.
O
off belay
American climbing command when requesting that the belayer remove belay equipment from the climbing rope (e.g. when cleaning top protection from a lead route). Replied to with "belay off".[15]
off-width
Off-width climbA crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams but is not as large as a chimney.[1][2] See big bro.
on belay
American climbing command when they are ready to be belayed. Replied to with "belay on".[15]
on-sight
To ascend a route on the first attempt, with no prior beta; with beta, it is a flash.[1][2][45]
open book
An inside angle in the rock. See also dihedral.
open project
A route that was bolted by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful in redpointing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".[60]
A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond the vertical. See roof.[2]
P
paddling
A multi-move dyno where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See also campusing.[43]
passive protection
Type of protection that remains static during a fall; opposite of active protection. See nuts and hexcentrics.
To systematically attain every peak of a designated class of summits (e.g. eight-thousanders), sometimes under prescribed conditions (e.g. in winter), and/or in a prescribed climbing style (e.g. no supplementary oxygen.)
A quickdraw but made from a steel cable with steel carabiners that is permanently fixed to the bolt; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.[1]
A flat or angled metal blade of steel for protection that incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body that is hammered into cracks; comes in a wide range of designs and types for different crack types and widths; common in aid climbing, big wall climbing, and alpine climbing.[1][2] See also RURP.
piton catcher
A clip-on string fastened to a piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.
plunge step
An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep-angle snow.
poop tube
Poop tubeA PVC tube-shaped container for carrying out human feces during multi-day or big wall climbs.[61]
PortaledgeA lightweight foldaway tent platform used in big wall climbing to create a rest point on a sheer rock face.
positive
A hold or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of a sloper.
pressure breathing
Also Whittaker wheeze.
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
problem
Also bouldering problem or boulder problem.
Used in bouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.[2]
progress capture device
Petzl Micro Traxion
Also PCD.
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, belaying, top rope solo climbing and in simul-climbing.[62][63] See also Self-locking device.
project
Also projecting.
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) route or boulder problem as a "project".
Carrying protectionEquipment for arresting lead climber falls, or to create anchors for abseils or belays. Examples are passive (bolts, copperheads, hexcentrics, ice screws, nuts, quickdraws, and skyhooks), and active (cams, friends, tricams).[1][2]
A screw-type oval-shaped stainless steel carabiner which is smaller than the normal carabiner.
R
rack
A traditional climbing rack on a harnessA rackA whale tail (rack)
1. Name given to the collective set of protection equipment carried by a lead climber up a climb.[1][2]
2. A type of heavy-duty "all-weather" descender known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used in caving. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.[64]
Secondary or intermediate fixed anchor point(s) along the length of a fixed rope (i.e. in addition to the main anchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.[65]
rebolting
The replacement of older bolts on an existing bolted sport climbing route.
Free climbing a route by leading it after having failed it or practiced it beforehand (e.g. by hangdogging, headpointing, or top roping). A route climbed on the first-ever attempt (and no practice), it is an onsight or a flash. See first free ascent.[1][2]
An energy-saving mountaineering technique where the unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, by "locking" the knee of the rear leg.
retro-bolting
The addition of bolts to a route that has already been ascended using traditional climbing protection. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.[66][67]
rigging plate
Blue rigging plate
Also rigging board and bat plate.
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a belay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
ripped
Term to denote when a piece of protection failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See zipper fall.[2]
rivet hanger
Rivet hanger
Also plate hanger, wire hanger, or cinch hanger.
A piece of aid climbing equipment used by the lead climber to attach to bolt runner rivets in the rock. See also carrot bolt.
A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr] to climb a route in Buoux called La rose et le vampire 8b (5.13d) in 1985.[69]
route
See climbing route.
RP
A small protection nut on a wire for tiny cracks with marginal holding power; named after Roland Pauligk.[2]
runner
1. In the US, a sling is made from nylon-blend materials, used by climbers for a multitude of purposes.[1]
2. In the UK, any item of protection placed by the lead climber to reduce the length of a fall.[2]
runout
A long runoutIn a term in lead climbing for the distance between points of good protection; in the grading of climbs, routes with long runouts have higher adjectival "E" grade (British system), or an R/Xor even X suffix (American system). See ground fall.[1][2]
RURP
RURPA miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly square piton, tied to a wire or rope and hammered into cracks; created by Yvon Chouinard in 1960 for extreme aid climbing routes in Yosemite; acronym for realized ultimate reality piton.[70]
R/X
A suffix used in the yosemite decimal system for traditional climbing routes that have poor possibilities for protection where any fall could be serious (e.g. Master's Edge). See X.
A rock climb with a much lower official climbing grade than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the crux that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]
A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiest grades.
screamer
1. Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.
Self-locking deviceA device used in solo climbing, and particularly rope solo climbing, to automatically arrest falls. Examples include Wren's Silent Partner. See also progress capture device. Compare automatic belay.
The involuntary vibration of the leg due to fatigue and/or panic and stress.[2]
shadow match
A rock climbing move to quickly switch hands on a hold that can only fit one hand at a time.
sharp end
The end of the rope that is attached to the lead climber, to denote the more serious activity they are undertaking compared to the belayer.[2]
short fixing
An advanced big wall climbing technique where the lead climber fixes the rope at an anchor to allow the second to ascend using jumars, while the leader climber then continues to ascend in a rope solo climbing fashion; unlike simul climbing, neither is belaying the other.[71][72]
side pull
A side pullA vertical hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.[1][2][11]
An advanced technique in which two climbers move simultaneously upward, with the leader placing protection that the second removes as they advance. A protection capture device (PCD) may also be used.[72]
The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points. See fixed rope.
sit start
Also sit down start or SDS
A sit startBouldering term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are SS (sit-start), SDS (sit-down-start), or assis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[73]
skyhook
SkyhookA metal hook inserted on a horizontal hold for protection in traditional climbing, or in aid climbing.
slab
A low-angle — significantly less than vertical — rock face that requires slab climbing techniques.[2]
slab climbing
A type of climbing on slabs that usually emphasizes balance, footwork, and smearing.
slack
In lead climbing and in top rope climbing, it is the amount of additional rope that the belayer has allowed; slack increases the distance of any fall before the protection begins to hold the rope, but is needed to reduce rope drag or aid.[74]
A style of lead climbing where the protection is via pre-placed fixed bolts; opposite of traditional climbing.[3] Confusingly, competition climbing (which includes bolted lead climbing, but also free solo bouldering and top-roped speed climbing) is sometimes called "sport climbing".[2][3]
A non-elastic climbing rope used for abseiling or jumaring (as a fixed rope), but not lead climbing. Compare dynamic rope.[2][29]
stein pull
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also undercling pull.[75]
stemming
StemmingTechnique for climbing opposing corners by pushing in opposite directions with the feet and hands. See chimneying.[1][2][12][11]
step cutting
Scooping steps out of snow or ice with the adze of an ice axe.
step kicking
Scooping and stamping steps out of soft snow with the feet.
2. A knot used to prevent the end of a rope from running through—and detaching from—a piece of gear.[1][2]
sure-footedness
Sure-footedness is the ability when hiking or mountain climbing, to negotiate difficult or rough terrain safely.[76]
T
tat
Term to describe pieces of webbing or cord left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable anchor point that was part of an abseil station.[77]
take
Also take-in.
The act of taking the slack out of a rope; also a climbing command by a lead climber to the belayer.[1]
talus
Talus rocksAn area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like scree.
talon hook
A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
tape
Applying tape
Also climbing tape and second skin
Adhesive tape that is wrapped around the fingers and hands to protect the skin; particularly useful in crack climbing.
technical grade
See grade.
testpiece
A route that is representative of the hardest climbs in an area at a particular grade (e.g. Action Directe for grade 9a).
tie in
Also tying in.
To physically attach the harness to the climbing rope, usually via a figure-eight knot. See clip in.
thread
A runner created by "threading" a sling around a jammed block or through a hole in the rock.[2]
toe hook
A toe hookAct of pressing the upper side of the toes under a hold to pull the climber inwards; used on overhangs.[1][12]
topo
The graphical representation – drawing or photograph – of a climbing route, with the main obstacles marked.
To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb; if the climber falls, they just hang. See hangdogging.[2][1][3]
top-out
To complete a route by ascending over the top of the climb to safety.[2]
torque pull
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is wedged into a crack and twisted to generate torque to aid upward momentum. See also undercling pull and stein pull.[75]
A style of lead climbing where protection is placed as the lead climber ascends; opposite of sport climbing.[2][3]
trail rope
Also haul line.
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][61]
Climbing on tufas1. A limestone rib formation that protrudes from the wall which climbers can pinch-grip.
2. A plastic bolted-on bouldering hold to replicate such a formation on an climbing wall.
twin ropes
In lead climbing, using two ropes that are even thinner than double ropes, both of which need to be clipped in at each point of protection; sometimes used in long alpine climbing routes with major abseiling descents.[29]
twist lock
A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.
U
UIAA
Acronym for the international governance body for mountaineering and other types of climbing; UIAA also regulates competition ice climbing.[1] See also IFSC.
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]
undercling pull
After a stein pull is completed, the undercling pull is a mixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[75]
A grading system for bouldering problems invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French font scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]
A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and in ice climbing.
verglas
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for crampons to have penetration. See also clear ice and glaze ice.
Climbing a via ferrataAn alpine route where protection is from permanent steel fixed ropes or chains, with progression aided by artificial steel steps or ladders; commonly found in the Dolomites. See also lanyard and energy absorber.
volume hold
Volume holdsA large, hollow, bolted-on hold, for indoor climbing walls; it may itself contain individual holds
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See also M-grade.
Round webbingA hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to make slings.
webolette
A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
weighting
Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope. See also hangdogging.
whipper
Climber on a whipperA large fall by a lead climber as they were well beyond the last piece of protection. See screamer.[78]
wire brushing
Cleaning a rock climbing route with a wire brush before an attempt; has ethical issues due to rock damage and possible chipping.[2]
wired
See dialled.[2]
wires
See nuts.[2]
X
X
A suffix used in the Yosemite decimal system for highlighting traditional climbing routes that have poor or even no possibilities for protection, where any fall could be fatal (e.g. Indian Face and Gaia). See R/X and chop route.
Y
yaniro
French term for a figure-four move which came from American climber Tony Yaniro's use of it on Chouca 8a+ (5.13c).[79]
yo-yo
A free climbing term pre-redpointing, where a falling lead climber returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the protection — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
American system for grading walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the French grade system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for sport climbing.[6]
Z
z-clipping
While lead climbing, clipping into protection with a segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in rope drag.[1][10]
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd be bf bg bh bi bj bk bl bm bn bo bp bq br bs bt bu bvClimbing Staff (4 May 2022). "What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
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