Shell cordovan, cordovan, or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an equine leather made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse.[1] The leather derives its name from the city of Cordoba, Spain, where it was first produced by the Visigoths in the seventh century,[2][dubious ] and later also by the Moors.[3][dubious ] It is a difficult and expensive leather to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a finger tab. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin. [4]
Horween Leather Company, the oldest tannery in the United States, is known for its production of shell cordovan and was called the "Cordovan capital of the world" by the Chicago Tribune.[5][6]
After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the tail 18 inches forward on the backbone. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term galoshes, meaning the vamps or boot-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.[7]
Después de ser curtido, el cuero del "frente" generalmente se usa en la fabricación de guantes , o se ennegrece, para usarse en la parte superior de los zapatos. La "cola", después del curtido, se pasa a través de una máquina cortadora que elimina la fibra o el lado del cabello , revelando lo que se denomina "cáscara". Las fibras unidas de la cáscara dan como resultado un cuero suave y flexible que se utiliza principalmente en la fabricación de zapatos . [7] Otros usos incluyen correas de relojes y la fabricación de lengüetas de protección de dedos para tiro con arco , donde es apreciado por su dureza, longevidad y cualidades protectoras.